Mike Darlow's Woodturning Series: Useful Woodturning Projects by Darlow Mike;

Author:Darlow, Mike;
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Fox Chapel Publishing

7.2.5 Making the frame

My antique frame was turned from European beech (Fagus sylvatica). I turned my copy from Australian mountain ash, Eucalyptus regnans. If you’re going to clear finish or stain your frame this should influence your choice of wood. If you’re going to paint your frame, almost any wood will do.

The workpieces need a dressed cross section of 28 × 28 mm minimum for the two vertical and two horizontal spindles, and for the four finials. (The finials are intended to resemble the knobbly club-shaped roots of bamboo.) The workpieces for the vertical posts and the top and bottom horizontal members called rails should be about 60-mm-longer than their members’ net finished lengths. This allows square cross section waste ends to be left to locate the spindles when the rabbets for the mirror glass are routed. Each finial workpiece should be about 30-mm-longer than the net length of a finial to allow about a 20-mm length to be held in a scroll chuck for boring.

When dressing the workpieces, mark the face and face edge surfaces, especially at the ends of the four spindle workpieces because those markings will be needed to ensure that the spindles are in the correct axial orientation when the rabbets are being routed. You can of course vary the dimensions and the number of nodes of a frame.

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